Kgalagadi, nature’s semi-desert wonder
Covering most of Botswana, the Kalahari Semi-Desert – known as the Kgalagadi in Batswana vernacular – is one of the largest continuous stretches of sand in the world.
The Kgalagadi extends into Angola, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia and Zimbabwe. In Angola, it reaches right up to the Congo River and its southern extremity reaches down to the Orange River in the Northern Cape of South Africa.A great part of eastern Ovamboland is part of the Kalahari and it covers most of the northern and central-northern regions, while its fringes reach to Rehoboth further south, penetrating up to 300 km westwards along these parts, meeting up with the Namib Desert still further south. As from the confluence of the Wit and Swart Nossob rivers – about 80 km south of Gobabis – the typical Kalahari landscape extends southwards for more than 250 km. It is these southern reaches that are most intimately associated with the word “Kalahari”, which conjures images in the mind of red dunes, age-old Camelthorns lining dry riverbeds and huge Sociable Weavers’ nests.
The Kalahari is extremely dry and harsh. As hot as it may be during the day, temperatures will turn just as cold during the night. Water is a precious resource on account of unpredictable rain patterns, but then it does have substantial groundwater, especially in the above-described southern reaches, where the renowned Stampriet Aquifer is situated a mere 100 meters below the surface.
The normally red vista of the Kalahari gives way to a myriad of nature’s colour schemes once the rain does set in. Nature is found to be extremely thankful and responsive to rain, which transforms a virtually barren landscape into undulating dune landscapes that are covered by green grass and brush, giving it's game a new lease on life. Birds feast on the abundance of insects and seeds with the resident bird numbers being boosted by migrant birds.
Although more than 250 bird species have been recorded, less than a third of the Kalahari’s species are resident. Kori Bustard, Ostrich and Secretary Bird are among the species unlikely to escape attention because of their size, while the enormous nests of the Sociable Weavers are a common sight. Flocks of Namaqua Sandgrouse flying to and from whatever surface water is available are a common sight in the early mornings. The Kalahari is also renowned for its raptors, while a variety of larks also occur here.
Originally the Kalahari was home to the semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers known as San, while over time the area was also inhabited by the !Khara-khoen or Fransman Nama, who under the leadership of Simon Kooper, engaged the Germans in several battles along the Auob River in 1905. Various skirmishes even thereafter allow the interested visitor today, to find numerous monuments and burial sites that remind of the colonial past and its consequences for Namibia.
National borders and the fencing off of farms largely stopped the migration of previously massive herds of Gemsbok, Eland, Blue Wildebeest and Red Hartebeest. The first indication of better things to come was the proclamation of the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa in 1931 and Botswana’s Gemsbok National Park in 1938. The absence of a national border fence along the course of the Nossob River, which demarcates the boundary between South Africa and Botswana in this area, allowed game to roam freely. In 2000, the two parks were amalgamated to form Africa’s first Trans-Frontier Conservation Area (TFCA), known as the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
It has been suggested that the name Kalahari is derived from the Kgalagadi, the first Setswana people, who settled in Botswana around the 14th century. They named the area where they lived Makgadikgadi which is translated as “salt pans” or “the great thirst land”. The Kalahari in Botswana partly comprises huge salt pans and the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans are found approximately 700 km northeast of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Even though Namibia is not part of that trans-frontier area, the Namibian Kalahari shares a long border with this park. Since the reopening of the Mata Mata border post, which leads from Namibia into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – the Mata Mata Rest Camp is found just beyond the border point on the Botswana side of the border – in 2007, visitors can make use of this Namibia-Botswana border crossing subject to having spent or spending at least one night in the park.
From experience, Tourismus Namibia advises visitors to rather visit this park with a vehicle that has good ground clearance, preferably even some form of off-road capabilities – that is if you are serious about fully exploring the park and enjoying its unique game, which includes the dark-maned Kalahari lions.
On the Botswana side, unfenced wilderness camping facilities are available on the eastern side of the Nossob River, at Twee Rivieren, Rooiputs and Polentswa, while on the South African side, there are three rest camps, at Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata Mata, and six unfenced wilderness camps, at Gharagab, Kieliekrankie, Urikaruus, Kalahari Tented Camp, Bitterpan and Grootkolk. Camping sites are only available at Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata.
Prepare yourself for a unique experience!