Discovering KAZA one river at a time
There is a moment that keeps finding its way back into my thoughts.
Standing on the Zimbabwean side of Victoria Falls, I knew I was going to get drenched. Everyone had warned us about the spray, but nothing quite prepares you for it. One moment you are admiring the falls from a lookout point; the next you are completely soaked. Instead of running for cover, I instinctively stretched out my arms and laughed. Around me, the roar of the water drowned out every other sound, and for a few seconds, nothing else mattered.
It was not the biggest adventure of our journey, nor the most dramatic photograph we took, but somehow it came to represent the entire trip. Sometimes the best travel moments aren't the ones you plan for; they are the ones you surrender
In July, our team set off on a 3 500-kilometre journey through the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area, travelling through Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia. Our goal was to capture the places, people and experiences that make KAZA one of Africa's most extraordinary travel destinations.
Hitting the road
Leaving Windhoek, the scenery changes almost imperceptibly. Dry central landscapes gradually give way to greener horizons, and by the time we reached Divundu, the Okavango River had replaced the dust. White Sands Lodge & Camping, overlooking the Popa Falls in Bwabwata National Park, was the perfect introduction to the journey. The sound of rushing water and sunrise over the river reminded us why Namibia's north-east deserves far more attention.
Heading east, the road follows one of Namibia's most underrated regions. The Zambezi feels unlike anywhere else in the country, with lush riverine forests replacing open desert landscapes. At Caprivi Mutoya Lodge, the Zambezi River quietly winds past the lodge while canoes drift across calm waters.
Further east, Serondela Lodge, tucked away on the Namibian banks of the Chobe River and reached only by boat from Kasane, offers an entirely different perspective. From private decks overlooking the river, elephants emerge from the opposite banks, hippos surface without warning and fish eagles announce the start of another day.
Before long, the road leads to Botswana, where Kasane becomes the gateway to Chobe National Park. Sandpiper River Lodge provides the perfect base from which to explore one of Africa's most celebrated wildlife destinations. Game drives reveal lions, buffalo, giraffes and countless antelope, while the sheer number of impalas roaming the park has earned them the affectionate local nickname of “Chobe goats”. Even the guineafowls have their own title here – “Chobe chickens” – proof that every destination has its own stories to tell!
The smoke that thunders
From Kasane, we crossed into Zimbabwe to explore Victoria Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya in Silozi, meaning “the smoke that thunders”) before later continuing into Zambia. The Falls deserve an article of their own, but experiencing them from both sides reinforced how differently a single destination can be appreciated depending on where you stand.
Walking through the rainforest on the Zimbabwean side reveals spectacular views of the Falls, while on the Zambian side, crossing Knife Edge Bridge offers a far more immersive encounter, where spray fills the air, and every step brings visitors closer to the power of the Zambezi.
Another highlight was the hike down to the Boiling Pot, the deep, churning whirlpool at the base of the Batoka Gorge. The climb back up is certainly not for the faint-hearted, but the views make every step (and catch-your-breath-moment) worthwhile.
At Victoria Falls Waterfront, uninterrupted views across the Zambezi came with one important lesson: never leave your dinner unattended. The resident vervet monkeys are charming, but they'll happily help themselves to a slice of your pizza if you look away!
Back to Botswana
Crossing the Kazungula Bridge back into Botswana, where four countries meet within a few kilometres, underlined just how connected this region really is. Borders may define countries, but the rivers, ecosystems and wildlife pay little attention to them.
Our return journey took us back into Botswana, this time crossing the impressive Kazungula Bridge before re-entering Namibia. We eventually turned south through Nkasa Rupara National Park, where Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge offers luxury surrounded by one of Namibia's richest wetland ecosystems. Nearby, Rupara Restcamp provides a more relaxed way to experience the same remarkable landscape, showing that unforgettable wildlife encounters have little to do with the style of accommodation and everything to do with where you are.
Further west, Nyime Safari Lodge became one of the journey's highlights. Overlooking the Okavango River in the Buffalo Core Area of Bwabwata National Park, the lodge feels wonderfully secluded. Boat cruises reveal hippos, crocodiles and countless bird species, while evenings around the campfire remind visitors that silence can be every bit as memorable as adventure.
Into the delta
Our final border crossing took us through Mohembo into Botswana's Okavango Delta. At Nguma Island Lodge, everything slowed down. Mokoros glided silently through the channels, birdsong replaced traffic, and there was no need to rush anywhere. We lingered over coffee, watched birds we couldn't name and simply enjoyed the stillness. It was the perfect ending to a journey that was never really about the kilometres, but about experiencing each place at its own pace.
Looking back, it would be easy to measure the journey by numbers: four countries, countless border crossings, multiple national parks and thousands of kilometres travelled. Yet those figures tell only part of the story. What remains long after are the lodge owners who welcomed us like old friends, the guides whose knowledge deepened our appreciation for the landscapes around us, and the quiet moments when the only sounds came from flowing rivers and the wildlife beyond.
Perhaps that's the greatest lesson this road trip offered. The borders may have guided our route, but they never defined our experience. Instead, they became gateways to new landscapes, different cultures and remarkable people, all connected by the rivers that have shaped this corner of Africa for centuries.
